Are pizza and mafia the only two associations you get when thinking of Napoli? Do not worry, you’re not the only one. This is exactly what I had in mind before my first trip to Naples- the capital of Italian region Campania located in the southern Italy, at the foot of Mount Vesuvius. This place has surprised me a lot, so come on, let’s me show it to you! Follow me to… NAPLES! 

 

Where to Stay in Naples

Naples it’s a big city which offers plenty of different accommodation options. Cheap hostels, fancy hotel or a traditional Italian AIRBNB? The prices start from 15-20 euros per night. The choice is massive however what’s more important is the location. I personally loved Vomero – local neighbourhood located up the cliffs. It is one of Naples’s most posh areas with all elegant restaurants, stylish coffee shops and fashion boutiques. Another area I would probably take a look at is Posillipo located in the western part of the city, perfect for those looking for beauty and luxury. It’s a home to all beautiful Italian mansions, fine dining restaurants and feels completely safe compare to other parts of Naples. While looking for accommodation look at the map of the city and make sure you’re staying away from doggy, poor areas ( but don’t get me wrong – it is not just a ‘ Naples thing’ you can find dangerous districts in every single big city around the world). Keep your eyes wide open but don’t get paranoid. It’s a famous tourist destination!

Getting Around

Rent a car? Well, we’ve done and after all I don’t think thats ideal. Frankly the main reason we rented a car was the fact that we’re staying actually a bit outside of Naples in my partner’s hometown so we needed a car to move around. I’ve also heard the underground and buses do not work properly (which wasn’t really true). So we’ve ended up renting an expensive car for the whole stay and spend hours in traffic or looking for a parking spacea gain expensive ( up to 3-5 euro per hour in the central Napoli).

Also way of driving in this city is absolutely insane with all mental scooter drivers ( up to four people on one scooter yes- four you heard me right!) Sometimes I was literally freaking out and screaming in the car. The funny thing was that you could spot the police everywhere but they didn’t do anything about this madness on the streets. Looks like driving that way there is completely normal ( however I am 100% sure if that was us – tourists driving that way we would get a massive fine, so it’s probably better not to go wild). So if I were you and if you’re staying in the city centre I would definitely leave the idea of renting a car and rather walk or use the underground and local buses. Another option would be a scooter rental – if you’re not afraid of driving in Naples. That would definitely be cheaper, easier to park and get around the city than a car.

Underground

Never heard that Naples does really have an underground? Don’t worry, same here! I was shocked by that fact already, but honestly the last thing I would expect was the railway station to be that magical. Metro Napoli is one of the most impressing underground railway station in Europe. Usually when we think of subway we think dirt, crowd and mice ( bleaah, hello London!). Well, not in Naples. Here it’s a work of art! Felt like being on a different planet…

Also tickets are really cheap compare to other places I’ve been to in Europe. A single ride cost 1 euro, daily pass 3,50 euro and a weekly one 12 euro ( 3 times cheaper than London!).

FOODIES

Napoli is super famous for its pizzas, however believe me it’s not about just pizzas here. It’s about everything, all neapolitan foodies in general. I swear everything I tried in this city was absolutely amazing! I am getting so hungry while writing all these right now haha, keep thinking of all these delicious pastas, fresh seafood, pizzas, desserts I had… Here my little list of few places I absolutely loved and truly recommend any you for a dinner out.

 

A Figlia Do Marinaro A truly wonderful seafood restaurant in the heart of Napoli, famous from it’s amazing Cozze ( mussels) From the freshest seafood we sampled Impepata di Cozze (mussels) to start with, Linguini Frutti di Mare (pasta with seafood), fried Calamari (YUMMM!), finished of with delicious Panna cotta. The food was more than fabulous, reasonably priced and also the service was brilliant! Never seen that happy, passionate staff working in the restaurant! I gave it a 5* and if I am ever in Naples again, that’s the first place I am heading to for a dinner!

Tufò – Trattoria Gourmet authentic Italian trattoria located in Posillipo. I went there with a group of Italian friends as they were truly recommending this place. We did make a reservation but we still had to wait outside for our table for almost an hour ( welcome to Italy!). Also there was another surprise on arrival- no menu. Hold on, what? Our server
was selecting food for us – pretty weird experience to me not knowing what I will eat. It all
came as sharing style platters- antipasti, served in a metal pans, from meatballs, to buffalo
mozzarella, cannelloni, aubergine parmigiana – every single dish was fab! Then also
sharing style mains- they gave us an option of 4 different pastas, we went for Pasta
Genovese and famous Pasta e Patate served out from a massive wheel of Parmesancheese (basically they lit that on fire right next to your table and tossed the pasta inside).
It was so cheesy and delicious, I loved it. And honestly couldn’t move afterwards. The bill
came up to 25 euros per person, which was SO cheap considering this crazy about of
food! Maybe it wasn’t ideal experience but I would still recommend this restaurant because
of the food and very unique way of serving the pastas.

Reginella – that place was actually a surprise date night! Also located in Posillipo. And it
was that unforgettable experience that I have decided to mentioned it here too! It’s just so
extremely beautiful and romantic! Could’t imagine better place for a date with your
beloved one. The restaurant has an amazing terrace offering breathtaking views over the
Gulf of Naples. Magical!

P.s. Here’s a Fun tale on PIZZA 

I’m sure you’ve heard that Napoli is a birthplace of pizza. Before going to Naples I didn’t know the whole story. So why have they called it ‘ Margherita’ ? Story says that Margherita Pizza was named after the Italian Queen whose name was Margherita. The Neapolitan pizza-maker Raffaele Esposito created the “Pizza Margherita” for her, garnished with tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil, to represent the national colors of Italy as on the Italian flag. I must admit that before going to Napoli I wasn’t a pizza freak, but after trying it there, trying my first real Neapolitan, more watery , less crispy pizza with the real mozzarella and real perfectly cooked tomato sauce I suddenly became a pizza lover! It tasted even better when I got to eat it in Antica Pizzeria Da Michele– known from the movie “ Eat, Pray, Love’ . I felt like Julia Roberts eating pizza with using only hands, surrounded by all shouting and gesticulating Italians (and having a trouble to zip my jeans afterwards haha!). Definitely a must visit place in Naples! Be prepared for a long queue – what’s inside it’s so worth it! The menu choice is real simple – Marinara or Margherita, water or coke to drink. Also the prices are incredibly low considering this pizzeria to be a real touristic spot right now- I mean 3,50 euro for the best pizza ever? How could you miss that? 

What to do in Naples

EAT

Not to be boring but EAT. As much as you can! That’s what we’ve been actually doing
while staying in Naples( I am not kidding) Apart from all amazing food served in the
restaurants there are some street food that you should try while in Naples- Buffalo
Mozzarella, Provola cheese ( smoked cheese balls) , prosciutto crudo ( cured parma ham),
arrancini ( little deep fried balls filled with rice, tomato and mozzarella cheese) , croquettes
( small breadcrumbed fried food roll containing usually mashed potatoes and meat or veg)
and my absolutely fav ( all my Italian friends would laugh now- Pizza Fritta – small deep
fried pizza, stuffed with ricotta cheese and salami- I was honestly eating it for lunch almost every single day, 1 euro for this Goddess is CRAZINESS!

Visit Pompeii

Perfect one-day trip for an adventurous types and history lovers. We all remember the
story of Pompeii from history classes. But it feels completely different to actually be there
after all this time. You can either book an organised trip by bus with a guide or drive there if
you have a car – it’s around 45 mins away from Naples. The entrance to Pompeii ruins cost
11 euro for an adult and 5,50 euro for 18-25 year old. Below 18 years old the entrance is
free! Check the opening hours before going as there are changing due to the season.

Instagramers – that’s also an original spot for travel snaps!
Visit Chiesa di Sant’Antonio a Posillipo

This church has honestly the most beautiful panorama over the city of Naples. I was a
witness of a wedding ceremony accompanied by pink cotton-candy sky. This view left me speechless!

Horse around in Piazza del Plebiscito.

It is a tradition in Piazza del Plebiscito to close your eyes, with your back to the Palazzo
Reale, and try to walk between the two bronze horses. When they told me to do it I laugh
at their faces being like “ What? it’s easy! ‘ but after they blindfolded my eyes it turned out
that I was walking all around over and over again! They explained later that it was due to sloping piazza floor. Such a weird feeling!

Go clubbing!

Napoli is not just about art, architecture, history and its food culture. It’s also a place famous from its wild nightlife and amazing beach clubs!

My absolutely amazing discovery was a place called Rama Beach Café attracted me with
its gorgeous balinese style interior, various sculptures ,tropical flowers and a magical
relaxation music in the background. It felt like a real temple. Located a bit outside Naples
but so worth is for a night out the city! It’s also a perfect spot for lunch in a little beach
bungalow, sun-bathing on stylish sun bed and a sunset aperitif with a sea view.

Try rum ‘baba’ –

You can find it in every single bar and café. It’s one of the city’s traditional cakes.
Apparently they taste the best in Naples! I would recommend a place called Caffé
Gambrinus located in Piazza Plebiscito. ( if you’d like a little coffee and baba in style).

It’s Naples’ oldest and most venerable cafe.

Wander as much as you can

The best way to discover Naples is on foot. While you’re wandering around don’t miss
these spots: Castel dell’Ovo, Castel Nuovo, Piazza del Plebiscite, the Royal Palace,
Vergiliano Park, Complesso Monumentale Di Santa Chiara, Plaza del Gesù Nuovo.

Shop Italian!

Naples is a true shopping paradise. Via Toledo (some people would still use its old name –
Via Roma), it’s one of Naples’s longest and most famous shopping streets, where you find
a lot of cute boutiques, a department stores, and Italian designer chains. Also don’t miss
out the local markets around ! They were decorated so lovely! ( Snap time! ) Don’t hesitate
and get yourself something local like olive oil or a bottle of Limoncello or go crazy and get
your Gucci bag- the one brought from Italy gives bigger satisfaction!

NEARBY TOURS 

Naples serves as an excellent jumping off point for other more Italian destinations. If you
love the island hopping as much as I do, do not hesitate and visit nearby little islands, all
completely different, all beautiful – of course luxurious Capri, green Ischia, and colourful
Procida. They are all located around and hour away by ferry from the main port in Naples.
There are also some speedy boats available ( a bit more expensive) that take 30-40
minutes. The prices of tickets were around 30-50 euros per person (depending on the type
of the boat) for a return trip.

CAPRI

Style, luxury and elegance are probably the best words to describe this beautiful island.
Every single corner is just a perfection. I don’t even know how is that place even real.
Every street, restaurant or coffee shop makes you stop and think – ‘wow’. Every place
makes you stop, take a photo and try to memorise it in your head forever. It’s funny that I
honestly haven’t found there anything that would be a little weird, dirty or ugly. It just feels
so unreal! I loved every minute spent on this island and I could move there anytime
straight away if I had a chance.

There are plenty of gorgeous restaurants, however there was one that made me stop and I
honestly didn’t want to sit anywhere else! Hello Instafriends I’ve found e a perfect spot for
us! Le Camerelle is simply amazing! It has the cutest tables ( literally perfect for flay lays
( if you know what I mean! ) and stunning view over hills and mountains. It’s also really
easy to find – just few minute walk from the main street will all luxury fashion boutiques.

Capri is also a perfect spot for a day at the beach. There are many hidden little private
beaches. The best way to experience as many as possible would be renting a boat for a
day and going around. You will also get to explore caves and Capri’s famous grottos. If you
can’t drive a boat- no worries! There are many locals who would offer a ride around. You
can also get around by bus ( single ticket cost 1,80 euros and the buses were running
pretty often – considering we’ve been there in October).

What you really need to know about the Capri though is the fact that the place is super
pricey. You will definitely see the difference between Napoli and this small paradise. I was
pretty shocked when got a bill for my cappuccino and it was 8,50 euro ( I didn’t realise the
service charge was 18,5%) so make sure you check before you order your dinner
especially if you’re travelling on budget! However I must admit this place is worth saving
up for! Haven’t seen a prettier place for holidays!

PROCIDA
This place is my absolutely amazing discovery. I honestly couldn’t believe I’ve never heard
of this tiny piece of paradise before. As you walk out from the boat all you see are colours.
Colourful houses, churches, boats. Real rainbow! As you probably can tell already – it’s my
obsession! When we got there I had no idea where to go, first time I really went
somewhere completely not prepared. I went there without any expectations. I didn’t read
about the place, I’ve never ever heard about it and all that was leading me there was an
traveller’s instinct. And do you know what? It was amazing! Felt like my place on Earth. I
was dying over its little cute streets and pink houses ( honestly never seen so many pink
houses in one place!) We have rented a scooter to move around and it was super cheap
compare to Capri. All day rental cost only 25 euro and we have managed to go across the
whole island.

To sum up my beautiful Neapolitan adventure I need to say that I look at this place a
slightly different way than just a tourist who has been there and crossed this place off its
bucket list. It was more than just a holiday. I’ve been there, stayed in real Neapolitan
house, in an authentic Neapolitan neighborhood between the locals.

I had a chance to observe their everyday lives and habits. I’ve had a coffee with them in a local bar, went out for a pizza together to the family-owned pizzeria and listened to their funny “fights” in Neapolitan (even managed to add few new words to my Italian dictionary!) I am not here to tell you “go to Naples, it’s beautiful”. This place is not about the beauty. It’s about its
authenticity. About the feeling that you’re actually in Italy. This place still feels like the time
has stopped. To me it’s still a place off the beaten track. Place of mystery and unknown.

And that makes it so fascinating and real beautiful. Place where people are so warm-
hearted and hospital. Place where people are so proud of their culture, language,

traditions and protect them over the years. I will be always coming back there with the
feeling that there are still so many places and secrets that it hides.